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Since I don’t live where maple grows wild
for the taking I am using magnolia this cap. Magnolia warps and goes
oval so it will work for the cap. This tree was cut about 6 months
ago and left in the yard. The end grain has split some but the cracks
only go about 1” deep on this unsealed piece.
I sawed the log section
in half through the heart. A cap can be turned from a smaller log
section than a cowboy style hat. It is still best if you can stay away
from
the heart section of wood so use something big enough to allow for
that. |
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I have marked a line that shows the heart
of the log and made marks 5” either side of this line to make my chainsaw
cuts.
The opening of the cap is toward the bark side of the blank unlike
turning a cowboy where the opening is to the heart. That is why you
can use a smaller piece of wood for the cap but it also means you will
be turning a lot of air on the outer edges of the cap and can’t use
a light to gage the bill thickness. The growth rings of the wood want
to straighten themselves out so the bill of the cap is toward the bark
side to assist bending it in the right direction. The wood is oriented
from front to back parallel to the heart to make the cap go oval in
shape. |
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The blank cut to a rectangular section
and the corners trimmed off. From here I will go straight to the lathe
without having to cut any more wood off. The blank is about 18” long,
10” wide and 6” thick. I allow excess wood in the blank now so I have
something to work with while I am trying to orient it on the lathe
for best grain presentation and in case I find a defect that needs
turned away. |
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I have marked the center of the blank and
will seat the spur center before I put the blank between centers on
the lathe. I am seating the spur in solid wood not bark. The bark and
the soft wood underneath can allow the spur center to become loose
and spin in the blank while turning. This can be dangerous by allowing
the blank to fly off the lathe. I removed all the bark from the blank
while I was cutting it out with the chainsaw. |
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The spur center seated in the blank. Use
a rubber mallet to prevent damage to the spur center. |
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The blank between centers. Rotate the
blank by hand to make sure it clears the ways and tool rest before
you turn the lathe on. Start the lathe at a slow speed and slowly bring
the speed up to something you are comfortable with to start roughing
at. |
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There will be a lot of air turned on the
outer edges of this piece so be very careful where your hands are at
all times. |
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Any time you move the tool rest, when turning an irregular
piece like this one, stop the lathe and rotate the blank by hand to
make sure it clears everything before starting the lathe back up. |
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Roughing starts at the outer edge and proceeds toward
the center in progressive steps. Start by cutting the tips of the wings
off and working back toward the center, taking longer cuts each time. |
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The bowl gouge is presented with the flute
in the direction of cut. Starting the cut toward the center and pulling
toward the outer edge. Even though you can’t see the wood on the outer
edge you continue the line of cut until clear of the wood and then
go back in for another cut. |