Project Tutorials

Gavel

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The Beall wood threading kit. Three sizes of taps and inserts for the router fixture (1/2”, ¾” and 1”), a double ended cutting bit and a pilot bushing to align the fixture on the router.

The taps have a long pilot section on the end that I have cut off to be able to thread deeper in a blind hole. The largest tap still has the long pilot end.

Tapping the threads in the head.

The finished threaded hole with the counter bore and chamfer.

I use my Nova chuck with the number 1 jaws to grip the square for the handle. Center the tailstock end of the blank and tighten the jaws.

The Stronghold and the small Nova are the only two scroll chucks I have. It would be convenient to have a chuck for every different size jaw needed, unscrew one chuck and screw another on.

If any tool supplies are reading, I would be glad to test new tools and write a section on their use. Just contact me and I will give my shipping address.

Start roughing to round at the tailstock end and work back toward the headstock.

I have the end for threading on the tailstock side. I mark off the thread length plus about a ½” extra to turn down for the ¾” threads. With the lathe, running you can see the blur of the small pencil mark made and finish the mark around the spindle.

Set the calipers and make a few sizing cuts as reference to turn down to.

Remove the excess wood to slightly over the desired diameter. I set my calipers to about 1/32’” over the ¾” diameter.

I use a sizing tool to complete the sizing. The sizing tool works well for any operation that requires an exact sized tenon, especially when you are working on a project that has many spindles like a crib or stairway.

Chamfer the end of the spindle to make starting the thread cutting easier.