Project Tutorials

Rolling Pin

 
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Barrel mounted on mandrel center

I have a wood scrap in the chuck that I turned a ½” tenon and a square shoulder on. This centers the shaft hole on the headstock end and acts as the drive center under compression.

Barrel sized

With the cone center in the tailstock end of the barrel, I now size the barrel to its finished diameter. I sized to 3” plus about 1/64” to allow for wood removed during the sanding process

Skewing barrel to size

Light cuts with a sharp skew will leave a good finish for sanding on most woods.

Skew scrape on barrel

I am using a 1 ¼”skew with a straight profile on the edge to take light scraping cuts that remove any ridges. Starting at on end and working across the barrel, I can make this a true cylinder ready for sanding.

Checking barrel flatness

Check the barrel with a straight edge. You want a flat surface all the way down the barrel length. If a dip is found mark the area and turn the rest of the barrel down to it.

Wetting wood for sanding

I wet the wood for sanding. The rolling pin will be washed at some time and that will raise the grain. I am pre conditioning the wood and removing the grain raised by that washing. I also reverse the lathe direction between grits of sand paper and re wet the wood. Grain pushed over and uncut by one grit of sand paper is then cut when reversed by the next. I sand up to 400 grit on this project.

End of barrel finish shaped

Turn the tenon away and clean up the endgrain. Make the end straight where the face of the handle will contact the barrel.

Purple heart handle blank chucked

The purple heart blank for the handle. The piece is 1 ¾” square because that is the thickest piece I have. Rough the blank to round.

Checking end for square

True the end in preparation to drilling. I use a flat side of the skew to check the end.

Drilling handle

I am drilling a 5/8” hole to fit over the shaft. Drill the hole deeper than the length of the finished handle so there is a hole all the way through after parting off. I am making the handles 4 ½” long. The hole in the barrel is ½”. The larger diameter shaft in the handle will give me a positive stopping point when I glue the shaft in place.

Parting handle

Part through the handle cylinder at this point.

Hole in handle after parting

The cylinder parted off with a 5/8” hole.

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